COMPLETELY READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING
Household tools needed:
Drill, 3/16 inch drill bit, phillips screwdriver or bit, sharp scissors, manual or electric staple gun, hand saw (if trimming of skull plate is necessary) hot glue gun or glue of your choice.
1. Clean the skull plate of all flesh.
Attach antlers to form:
2. If skull plate trimming is necessary, mark prior to cutting to ensure proper cut and fit as shown in the picture below. Cut skull plate squarely, avoiding saw contact with the antlers.
3. Drill two 3/16 inch holes in the skull plate as far apart as possible as shown in the picture above.
4. If the antler mount form is attached to the plaque, unscrew it now and place the skull plate on the antler mount form. If the back of the skull plate is not cut square, re-cut it or place a small shim behind it to square it up.
5. Screw the skull plate to the antler mount form using 2 of the 2 ½ inch screws from the front side through the two 3/16 inch holes. If the screws protrude out of the backside of the form, cut, file, or grind screws off flush with the back of the form.
6. Make sure the antlers are squarely mounted on the form. Hold the backside of the form against a flat surface and measure from the surface to the back side of the antler beam on each side of the rack. The measurements might not be exactly the same due to the characteristics of the antlers. If adjustments are needed, loosen screws and adjust or add a small shim.
Mache skull plate:
7. Add 1/2 to 2/3rd’s of the provided mache to a disposable container. Add small amounts of warm water at a time, stirring the mixture in between. Add water or mache as necessary until the mixture is a putty consistency. Fill in around the skull plate with the mixture creating a solid, continuation of the antler mount form as shown in the picture on page 3. It is not necessary to fill in behind the skull plate. You are creating a smooth, filled in area that the batting and leather covering will lie over. Drying time is 30 minutes, depending on conditions. Use a fan to accelerate drying time. Mache will clean up with warm, soapy water.
8. Measure between the centers of the base of the antlers below the burrs as marked in the picture on page 1. The measurement should be around 3½ inches. On the batting, cut two ¾ inch circles 4 inches down from the top 3½ inches apart (or the measurement that you took). From each circle, cut outwards to the top of the batting at a slight angle as shown in the picture below.
9. As shown in the picture on page 4, staple the batting to the backside of the form at point 1, then 2, and then at 3. Make sure the batting is up to the base of the burrs. Repeat this on the other side. Next, fold the top “flap” over the top and staple to the back of form. Excess batting under the flap can be cut out before stapling the flap. The batting seams should be directly behind the antlers. This will hide the seams when viewed from the front. Pull the batting snug at the base of the form and staple it to the backside of the form at the base. Continue stapling the batting from point 2 down to the base. Stretch the batting as needed to remove wrinkles.
10. The leather covering is genuine leather containing natural flaws and scars. The backside of the leather is finished, dyed and brushed. Either side gives the mount a unique and different look.
11. Repeat steps 8 and 9 using the leather to cover the batting. It might be necessary to cut the outside of the circles slightly larger as you begin attaching the leather to avoid wrinkles. Cutting the circles larger on one side is a way to remove excess leather. Use a sharp pair of scissors and trim a little at a time. If the finishing rope is not going to be used under the burrs, it is important to cut a nice, smooth circle in the leather so it fits up tight against and slightly underneath the antler burrs. Clean under the burrs first with a knife if needed. Staple the leather towards the center of the form; this will help eliminate wrinkles. You can go back and staple closer to the edge during step 12.
12. After the leather is attached, remove any remaining wrinkles and folds. They can be eliminated by cutting a V shape out of them on the backside of the form as shown in the above picture. The open end of the V should face towards the center of the form. After cutting the V out, re-staple the leather closer to the edge. Cut off any excess leather and remove any unused staples from the back of the form. The form should lay flat against the plaque.
Attach form to plaque:
13. Have someone assist you with this step to ensure the mount is fastened squarely. Place the form on the plaque where you want it. Make certain it is centered left and right. Using the existing hole, attach the form to the plaque by screwing a 1¼ inch screw through the backside of the plaque. Using a 3/16 inch drill bit, finish drilling 3 of the predrilled holes through the plaque. The plaque is predrilled for different sizes of mount forms, finish drilling the holes that match your form only! Drill through the plaque only. Finish attaching the form to the plaque with 3 more of the 1¼ inch screws.
*The Overlay style plaques use 2 inch screws.
*For leather covered plaques, drill just until the tip of the drill bit comes through the wood. Then, make a small slit in the leather at that point. Finish drilling through the plaque.
*The steel plaques are not predrilled and use 3/4 inch screws. Measure and mark the screw holes. Make sure that when the screws are completely screwed in they won’t protrude out the topside. The screw pattern should be that of a cross.
Attach the finishing rope:
14. You can give your mount a unique look by attaching a finishing rope. If a finishing rope is going to be used, attach it below the base of the antler burrs. Cut to size and glue in place with a hot glue gun (or other type of glue) with the seam in the back as shown in the picture on page 4.
Check your work and hang mount on wall:
15. To avoid injury and/or damage, make certain that the antlers and form are all securely attached.
16. Securely hang the completed mount on the wall.
COMPLETELY READ INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE BEGINNING
1. Clean the skull of all flesh.
2. Thread a 20 inch piece of suitable size wire through the natural holes in the skull from the bottom side. Be certain that the wire is threaded through a solid portion of the skull to prevent damage. Do this in at least two different locations for added stability.
3. Place the skull on the plaque and mark with a pencil where the wires contact the plaque. From the topside of the plaque, drill a 3/16 inch hole at each of your marks. *For leather covered plaques, make a small slit in the leather prior to drilling.
4. Run the wire through the drill holes. Press skull firmly against plaque and connect each set of wires by twisting them together. Further pressure can be placed on the wire by making a final twist with a pair of pliers, being careful not to weaken the wire. Cut any excess wire off and flatten the twist against the plaque. A piece of heavy gauge tape can be placed over the cut wires on the back side of the plaque to prevent damage to the hanging wall. Felt pads can also be placed on the backside at each corner of the plaque to keep it away from the wall.
5. Before hanging the completed mount on the wall, make certain that the skull is firmly and securely attached to the plaque to avoid injury and/or damage. Additional wire or a heavier gauge of wire might have to be used depending on the size, weight, condition, and strength of the skull and antlers.